The GQ Guide to Suits

“That’s our mantra here at GQ. It’s what we preach every issue. Doesn’t matter what kind of suit you’re investing in, whether it’s $200 or $2,000, flannel or seersucker, two-button or three. We’ve seen plenty of guys who’ve bought the right suit and let it hang off them like an NBA rookie on draft night. And we’ve seen men in cheap but well-tailored suits who look like a million bucks. The thing’s got to fit right, or else there’s no point in wearing it. Question is, what’s the right fit, and how do you get it?

A. Take It from the Top
A good suit should hug your shoulders, not slouch off them. Most guys think they’re a size larger than they are—say, a 42 regular instead of a 40. When buying a suit, go ahead and try sizing down. When you pull on the jacket, there should be a firmness to it. You should snap to attention and stand taller. If it doesn’t fit right in the shoulders, don’t buy it.

B. Lose the Flab
Think about the width of the sleeves. This is an obsession of ours at GQ. For pretty much every photo shoot, we have a tailor slim down the sleeves, trimming them of excess fabric. It cuts a mean figure.

C. Show Some Cuff
Your suit sleeves should end just above the hinges of your wrists, so a quarter to half inch of shirt cuff shows. It’s like the frame on a painting—the elegant finishing touch.

D. Taper, Taper, Taper
Your jacket should contour to your body. Have a tailor nip it at the sides. This will accentuate your shoulders—whether you’ve got strong ones or not.

E. Break It Down
We like flat-front pants, cut slim, with very little break at the ankle. This produces a long, clean look. Your pants should just clip the tops of your shoes, not bunch up over them.”